Wednesday 21 March 2018

Day 4 - To Miriam's Quetzal Lodge via Tapanti National Park



Should-have-been-Bird of the Day - Sunbittern!!

Breakfast was at 6am this morning and after our standard breakfast of fruits, scrambled egg, potato, plantain and rice and beans washed down with coffee and juice we completed the bird call that fatigue had prevented the night before.

A few birds around the front of the hotel accompanied the bus packing and soon we were on our way out of the city of San Jose. To take our minds of the traffic and to enrich them Diego gave us a few lessons about Costa Rica. While he was speaking one could not help reflect on how very good his English is. He had had lessons during high school but he claims his language progressed more post school. However he did it, he was more than competent. While I’m on the subject of Diego, I should add that he is an excellent guide; thoughtful, knowledgeable, patient [so far..], excellent knowledge of birds both with sight and sound, a good communicator who is willing to share his stories and information about Costa Rican history, geography, politics etc, he even feigns interest in our offers of information about Australia! 

Costa Rica National Bird - Clay Coloured Thrush

Costa Rica has achieved much for a small nation and could act as an example for many nations, ours included. Historically they did away with their armed forces, so to this day they have no standing army. The money was channelled into Schools and Universities and a universal health system. Diego claims that the Government run Costa Rica University is among the highest regarded in Latin America and offers an affordable education for Ticos. Environmentally the nation boasts a National Park estate some 25% of the landmass plus a variety of other protected areas in private or NGO hands. 85% of their electricity comes from a variety of renewable sources; chiefly hydro and thermal with some wind. Solar remains under-developed but I’m sure has real potential. 2020 was offered as a target year to achieve 100% renewable energy; this remains a little optimistic but with the conversion of the car fleet to electricity this could be achieved within a decade of their stated targets.

The main destination of the morning was the Tapanti National Park however we scored some good birds before we arrived.

First stop was a small bridge where we saw a pair of American Dippers well. They showed well and gave a visual lesson of Dipper behaviour.
 
American Dipper

American Dipper

American Dipper


Next stop attracted over 20 spp. The standout was the Montezuma’s Oropendola. There was a small breeding colony located in a large Eucalypt tree. There large hanging nests looking like, well, a pendulum. 
The birds were brilliant; large, loud, colourful, gaudy with impressive displays. Green breasted Mangoes, a species of Hummingbird, were nesting nearby, and the female was in attendance feeding her chick. Social, Piratic and Grey headed Flycatchers plus Great Kiskadees were nearby as were Variable Seed=eaters and a beautiful Euphonias; a Yellow throated.

Green breasted Mango; nest foreground with chick, female in background

Green breasted Mango

Montezuma's Oropendola

Nests of the Oropendola

Montezuma's Oropendola


Philadelphia Vireo

Grey headed Flycatcher

Social Flycatcher

Social Flycatcher

Variable Seedeater

We passed some Shade Coffee plantations, which is a more environmentally friendly than a 'normal plantation that is usually just a monoculture.

Shade Coffee plantation




Tapanti NP allowed us to start seeing a few feeding flocks; Tanagers, Flycatchers, Warblers and Common Chlorospingus were seen. Red headed Barbets were seen by some however quite a few spp gave small frustrating glimpses only such that they remained unidentified. A large Ornate Hawk Eagle flew by calling loudly. We scored excellent views of a few spp seen poorly the day before; especially Red faced Spinetail, Tufted Flycatcher, Slate throated Redstart. Swainson’s Thrush was seen as well as the resident Pale vented Thrush, who we tracked to its nest was also seen well. Another Euphonia was seen – Tawny crowned; another beauty.

Tawny-capped Euphonia

Costa Rican Tufted Flycatcher

Tawny-capped Euphonia

[Western] Slaty capped Flycatcher

Slate-throated Whitestart [Redstart]

Costa Rican Tufted Flycatcher

[Southern] Yellowish Flycatcher

After some excellent birding in Tapanti lunch was called and we needed to drive for about half an hour to our lunch locale. It took longer than that though as we saw [what should have been the bird of the day]  a Sunbittern! This is an excellent spp to see and I would claim we saw it well; including views of the vivid wing pattern the bird exhibits in flight. Spotted Sandpiper was also seen at this small creek as was good views of a Common Tody Flycatcher nesting.

Amazon /Kingfishers

Lunch was at a small friendly family run place which also had a great spread of feeders. Grackles, Thrushes, Brown Jays competed with Orioles [Baltimore and Orchard – the latter a new spp for the trip] and Tanagers [Passerini’s, Blue grey, Palm and Golden hooded] for Fruit. The Golden hooded Tanager, which admittedly was stunning, was voted BIRD OF THE DAY! Hummers included Rufous tailed, Green breasted Mango and, another newbie, Garden Emerald. Bananaquits were common in the garden. A woodpecker was heard loudly drumming but remained unseen. A few warblers were recorded; Yellow, Mourning and Tennessee to go with Chestnut sided and Blackburnian that were recorded in Tapanti NP. Lunch was the normal mix of Chicken, salad, rice and beans; washed down with good coffee and followed by a tasty sponge cake – it hit the spot.

Common Tody Flycatcher

Greyish Saltator

Bananaquit
Brown Jay - juvenile with an orange bill

Brown Jay adult
Variegated Squirrel

BIRD OF THE DAY!!
 A stunning Tanager....

Golden hooded Tanager

Ruddy Ground Dove


After lunch we headed towards a town, Paraiso, where in the middle of the town square, in the shadow of a large Catholic church were a couple of Owl spp. The first was a Barn Owl that had found a hollow of sorts within a large Palm tree. The next was perhaps more impressive; a pair of Tropical Screech Owls, that were roosting near a bromeliad and orchid packed tree, seemingly unconcerned by the throng of people that peopled the park…

Owl Twitch

Barn Owl

Tropical Screech Owl 

Tropical Screech Owl/s

A small wetland on the outskirts of the town yielded a few new spp for our trip list. Imagining the wetland, from right to left, we had Little Blue Heron, Common Gallinule, Northern Jacana, Blue winged Teal, Southern Lapwing and then more Blue winged Teal. Great-tailed Grackles were also in attendance.

After all these birds the day had begun disappearing so the plan was to head for our accommodation – Mirriam’s Quetzals. A brief stop was needed for Eastern Meadowlark and an even briefer one for a Great Egret.  A fuel and toilet stop was needed and then it was a drive with only the briefest pause for another new spp, Sooty Thrush.

Dinner at Mirriam’s was a Costa Rican affair with most people enjoying locally produced fresh trout and an interesting Peruvian Papaya, which needed to be cooked in syrup, for dessert.

Last bird heard and then seen was Dusky Nightjar!

Another great day.       



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